I have really got used to Todos Santos – San Cristóbal seemed massive to me, all 86,000 inhabitants of it. There are traffic lights and pavements (side walks, my American friends)! Some places take half an hour to walk to! I don’t think much of what I did this weekend will be of interest to most of you . . . because my excitement threshold is really rather low these days. Obligatory list of thrilling things I bought: cheese (of different varieties!), fresh bread, coconut, flan, Ritz crackers, pinguinos (little jelly sweets), Worcestershire sauce-flavour Doritos, granola, shampoo, shower gel, hair dye (I’m going dark again), silver wire, beads, wadding, lining fabric, crochet thread, and, most excitingly: new shoes! (Maroon Converse, to replace my hiking sandals.) I also had a lie-in until about 11 a.m. on Saturday, just because I could. It was awesome.
I brought nothing but my traje to wear, partly because I really like it and partly because I wanted to see how people would react. They didn’t, much, for the most part. It’s not Todos Santos – nobody just says hello to you on the street and even if you look decidedly odd people won’t ask why. There are a lot of indigenous women in San Cristóbal who also wear traditional clothes (those big furry woolly skirts I got so excited about last time) but even they mostly just stood and stared at me. It bothered me more than I thought – I am so used to having friendly chats all over the place that it seems very distant not to.
Saturday night I went out with two people from my hostel, a Finnish woman and an ancient English hippie from Hammersmith. We went to one of my other favourite places – the wine and tapas bar on Real Guadelupe. How civilised to sit at a little table in the street and watch people go by while drinking red wine and eating tasty little bits! There are some things that Todos Santos definitely lacks. We went on to another bar later where I had my first mojito in I don’t know how many months and ended up chatting (oh the irony!) to a Guatemalan who recognised my traje. My Spanish gets better and better the more I drink . . . I vaguely remember that we were discussing development issues, but I seem to be doing that a lot anyway.
Sunday was another full day of running around shopping and spending yet more time in the superfast internet café. I also visited Jason at his stall in the bazaar (he makes jewellery and there is a new indoor market in the restaurant next to Revolution every weekend, if you want to check it out!) and I had falafel again 🙂 So ended my visa run weekend. (I did see virtually all the sights in and around San Cristóbal last time I was there, so don’t fear that I’ve turned into a supermarket / internet / wine bar obsessive.)